Artem Mukhin is the chef of the Moscow restaurant Bambule and an advocate of French cuisine. Once not a cook, 19-year-old Artem learned French to study the works of Alain Pasar, Paul Bauquiz, Fernand Poin, and Pierre Gagnaire. And as he learned, he began to read many cookbooks that were not translated into Russian and watch cooking shows. In one of these shows hosted by Alain Passard on Saturday, Artyom saw how to make jam from tomatoes. And when he saw it, he fell in love forever.
He called Artyom to the studio and asked him to show him how to cook. Here is a detailed master class and recipe.
Chef Artem Mukhin at Bambule Restaurant:
“The tomato jam is completely self-sufficient. But since tomatoes are somewhere between sour and sweet, there are two ways to make such a jam. If you make it sweet and add no salt, it will almost become a dessert. Or add salt to it and it goes great with cheese and bread and makes a great bruschetta. Add some spicy herbs like parsley, basil, tarragon or thyme leaves to your tomato jam while cooking, plus lime leaves and lemongrass sprigs to get a very powerful product with a complex taste. True, such jam should not be rolled up in jars and stored for a long time. And before serving, add more cilantro and coriander seeds and mix with olive oil, ideally served with meat, roast lamb.
It is believed that the Spaniards were the first to think of making jam from tomatoes. Perhaps the climate and crop surpluses pushed them. They made mashed potatoes with tomatoes and then boiled this paste. Perhaps it has something to do with these many sweet tomatoes. It turned out great. The wisdom of the public was confirmed by the research of Pierre Ganier and Heston Blumenthal, who together with scientists found that the amino acids in tomatoes are similar to those in strawberries, raspberries and other berries. Therefore, sweet tomato jam turned out to be very harmonious.
Attempts to make sweets with unsweetened vegetables blossomed during the era of French chef Alain Chapelle, who began with Paul Bauquise and Fernand Pointe. He has an old book from sometime in the 50's or 60's featuring pea jam. And Alain Pasar makes history as a stuffed tomato dessert with celery roots and stems, garlic, shallots, oranges and apples. Then glazed all over with caramel. In general, you can make jam with any vegetable, as long as fiber or pectin is important to get the texture.
Especially for this jam, it's a good idea to use different types of tomatoes to make sure the taste is balanced and complex. Otherwise our brain will refuse to eat it and we will be bored. Yellow tomatoes give the youthful color and desired shape, simple garden tomatoes give a nice scent, and plum tomatoes give the jam's sweetness and texture. It is good to have green seeds in the garden. It gives a beautiful picture due to the color contrast. The result is a combination of red, yellow and green.
One.
Take 260 g plum tomatoes, 280 g round red tomatoes, and 280 g yellow cherry tomatoes. Ideally, some tomatoes will be slightly ripe, and some will be stronger. This will make the structure of the jam more interesting. Cut into cubes. It is best to cut the cream thinner into pieces to form the basis of the jam. Simple round tomatoes are best cut into larger pieces to preserve texture. Cherries can be cut in half. If there are tomatoes with oak skin, it is better to remove them. Otherwise, it will interfere with the jam. However, if your skin is soft, it is better to leave it as it is. It will add flavor to the jam. As a rule, we cut coarse holes in the tomatoes to which the stems are attached, but it is better to leave them in the jam. It turns out to be much more fragrant.
Finely chop 5 g of ginger. If you like how the root pieces feel against your teeth, cut them larger. Chop two cloves of garlic into thin slices.
Place tomatoes, garlic and ginger in a large frying pan or
pot and preheat over high heat. The larger the area of the plate, the
better. Then the tomatoes will not boil.
If it turns out that all the tomatoes do not fit into the pan at once, then you need to put them in portions. Start with red plum tomatoes, then red round tomatoes, then yellow tomatoes. The first thing on the fire should be tomatoes that boil faster. If desired, you can add 100ml of white vermouth to the saucepan at this stage. Then the taste of the jam becomes a little more complicated.
2.
Mix 410 g of sugar and 3 g of pectin. This is necessary so that the pectin does not turn into lumps during cooking. If you want to make the jam sour, you need to reduce the amount of sugar to 300g, take 5g of pectin and double the amount of rice vinegar you will add in the next step. 50g instead of 25ml.
Three.
Cover the tomatoes with sugar mixed with pectin. Do not touch at this time and wait until the moisture escapes.
4.
When the juice and sugar syrup are mixed in the pot, pour 25ml of vinegar. Turn on high heat and simmer the tomatoes for about 5-10 minutes. Gradually the moisture evaporates and the syrup thickens. The faster the evaporation process, the better. Vinegar is needed here to taste. Sugar interacts with acids, and the sweet taste that results from this reaction is much tastier than that of regular sugar. It is better to use rice vinegar than regular vinegar. The scent is much milder. If desired, substitute equal amounts of sour white balsamic vinegar, raspberry vinegar, and lemon juice.
5.
If the jam is ready, but still slightly boiling, add sea salt. I won't say proportions based on your taste. Do not add salt sooner. This prevents the vinegar and sugar from interacting properly. Salt is essential for storing jam. If you plan to eat jam in the near future, you don't have to.
6.
If the jam is intended for canning, leave it for a day. During this time the pectin will do its job and penetrate deep into the tomato flesh, which will thicken the jam and give it a good structure. Then bring to a boil again and place in plain sterile jars. Unboiled ready-made jam should be stored in the refrigerator, but it is best to consume it as soon as possible. "
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